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Replace iPhone 11 Pro Front Camera While Keeping Face ID Function

Today we will share how to replace the front camera of iPhone 11 Pro while keeping the Face ID function.

Turn on the phone and open the camera. The rear camera works fine while the front camera malfunctions.



Then we disassemble the phone. Remove the shielding covers and disconnect the battery. Disconnect the front camera flex cable.


Get a new front camera flex cable. Install the new front camera flex cable. Connect the battery. Turn on the phone and open the camera. Both the rear and back camera work fine. It can be concluded that the failure of the front camera is caused by the damaged front camera.



As the front camera is fixed together with the infrared camera and dot projector, we need to replace the front camera separately if we want to keep the Face ID function.

Remove the front camera module.In order not to damage the infrared camera and dot projector, apply tapes to the infrared camera and dot projector.


The front camera flex cable and connector are good, which tells us that the failure of the front camera is not caused by flex cable and connector. The damaged front camera has caused the trouble.


Then we need to replace the front camera. Attach the front camera module to the holder. Heat with Hot Air Gun at 100 °C to remove the tape.


Grind the metal plate away with a Polishing & Grinding Pen. Pry up the metal plate with tweezers.



Heat the front camera with Hot Air Gun at 100 °C for 30s.


Cover the front camera with Dust-free wipe and press it gently.


Detach the damaged front camera. Apply some adhesive. Install the new front camera. Fix the front camera with the holder.





After an hour, remove the front camera module. The front camera has been successfully replaced. Then we install the front camera module to test. Turn on the phone. Both the front and rear cameras work fine. The Face ID functions well too.



We can see that the front camera replacement will not affect the function of the Face ID while the Face ID will be disabled for front camera module replacement. Visit REWA Academy to study more phone repair techniques. You can learn phone repair business here.

Watch the video below to see how we fix the iPhone 11 Pro front camera while keeping the Face ID function.

How to Replace iPhone X Screen Display in Details

If you've broken your phone screen, here are some tips for display replacement. We will bring you a case iPhone X as a reference. All you need is a repair kit and a new screen. The repair kit should be included as below: tweezers, screwdrivers, pry piece, suction cup, heating pad, programmer, spudger, battery adhesive, and waterproof adhesive.

 

 

Before the screen assembly replacement, we need to check out the True Tone display function and whether it still works as usual or not to make sure the new screen will be working.

 

Firstly, please long press the phone to turn it off. Then you can use a pentagon screwdriver to unscrew the screws at the bottom of the phone. Please pay attention to putting the screws aside well. You can place the screen face down on the pad for about 2-3 minutes after the heating pad is up to the temperature of 70—80°c. And fix the suction cup at the bottom of the phone, lift the screen gently, and insert a pry piece underneath. Gradually move around the edge of the display, separating the screen along the gap. The display assembly is still connected to the iPhone by cables, so don’t try to remove it completely. Again, please pay attention to the position of the cable to avoid damage. The angle should not be greater than 90 degrees to prevent breaking the flex cable. The process of removing the cover is done.

 

 

 

 

Next, use a Tri-wing screwdriver to unscrew the screws on the shielding cover of the cable connector. You can use a spudger slightly to extricate the battery and the connector between the screen and motherboard. Now, continue to follow instructions step by step. Detach the earpiece speaker flex cable, and remove the old display assembly.

 

 

In order to retain the True Tone function on the display as everything in the iPhone is paired to another screen, it's suggested to make good use of a programmer. Fasten the old touch connector on the corresponding connector of the programmer, and start reading. After everything is done, take off the old screen assembly, connect the new one to the programmer, and start writing.

 

 

 

 

Please connect the new screen assembly to the programmer, start writing, then place the old screen assembly on the heating pad. You can use a Tri-wing screwdriver to unscrew the screws of the earpiece cable and take out the earpiece. Tear off the protector of the new screen assembly and reassemble the earpiece cable on the new screen assembly. Lastly, tighten the screws. Please pay attention to the position of the grounding chip. Finally, we come to the connection part. Please connect the display cable, touch cable, earpiece cable, and battery accordingly.

 

If there is something wrong with the repair process or assembly issue, it's better to do some tests after replacing a new screen.

 

 

 

It is the same step as the beginning. Long press to turn it on to do some screen test first. We need to do several tests: 3D touch testing, True Tone testing, and light adjustment testing. If your phone shows, all is usually working. Then you can tear off the waterproof adhesive and make it adhere to the phone body. Press lightly with tweezers to make it adhesive, tear off the film, reassemble the display cable, and touch the cable. And the earpiece assembly, and connect the battery. Install the shielding cover, and tighten the screws. Take off the waterproof film around the frame. Buckle the phone screen, and tighten the screws at the bottom.

 

 

Those are all iPhone X screen replacement steps we share with you. If there is any confusion, please leave us your comment.

 

 

 

Fix Blackshark 3 won't turn on - CPU Reballing

Today we will share how to fix a Blackshark 3 that won't turn on. Press the power button and the phone is unable to turn on. Plug in the power cable and the phone is still dead.

Next, we need to take apart the phone for further testing. Place the phone back down on the heating pad at 100 °C for 2 minutes. Insert a plastic card and slide it through. Apply some alcohol to facilitate separation. Please don’t break the flex cable while lifting the back cover.

Disconnect the flex cable. Remove the shielding cover, speaker, and camera. Disconnect the antennas.

As the motherboard is fixed by a screw under the screen, we need to remove the screen before taking out the motherboard. Place the screen down on the heating pad at 100 °C for 5 minutes. Start separating the screen.

As the screen is separated, disconnect the flex cables. Remove the screen and motherboard. Then we connect the motherboard with a direct current supply. Trigger the boot-up with tweezers. The boot current jumps between around 100 mA and 200 mA. It can be judged that the pseudo-soldering of the CPU has caused the problem.

Next, we need to reball the CPU. Remove the shielding cover. Scrape off the thermal paste.

In order to remove the CPU, we need to cut a gap first.

Attach the motherboard to the holder and protect the flash memory. Remove adhesive with a hot air gun at 300 °C and airflow 80.

Then heat the RAM with a hot air gun at 380 °C and airflow at 120. While heating, try to pry up the RAM with a pry blade. You can remove the RAM once it becomes loose.

Keep heating to remove the CPU.

Then we apply some middle-temperature solder paste to the bonding pads. Neutralize the temperature of the bonding pads with soldering iron at 380 °C. Clean tin on the bonding pads with solder wick. Remove adhesive with a hot air gun at 300 °C. Clean the bonding pads with PCB cleaner.

Use the same method to clean tin and adhesive on the CPU. During cleaning, some capacitors will be erased. Please note that these are filter capacitors and do not influence the use of the phone.

Clean tin and adhesive on the RAM with solder wick. Remove residual adhesive with a hot air gun at 300 °C.

Reball the CPU. Apply some middle-temperature solder paste. Heat with a hot air gun to form the solder balls. Then recall the RAM.

The next step is to solder the CPU. Apply some paste flux. Align the CPU. Solder the CPU with a hot air gun at 350 °C and airflow at 100. Touch the CPU gently with tweezers. If the CPU returns to position, the CPU is soldered well. Then we solder the RAM. After the motherboard cools, apply some thermal paste. Put back the shielding cover and install the motherboard.

The phone vibrates and there is light on the edge of the screen. We can judge that the phone is able to turn on but the screen is damaged.

Then we install a known-good screen. The phone turns on normally. That’s as far as today’s repair goes. We will keep working on more Android repairs. Please stay tuned.

Please visit our YouTube channel for the video guide and visit our shop for the instruments that we used to fix this problem.

How to Remove iPhone (11-12) Non Genuine Screen Message by Aftermarket Screens

For iPhone 11 and higher ones, if you get your screen changed from a non-authorized repair service center,“Important Display Message” will appear.

As screen replacement is one of the most common repairs for iPhone, the price of Apple's official screen replacement is several times that of third-party repair parts, which makes consumers have to turn to third-party repair channels.

However, the non-genuine screen warning will inevitably appear after third-party screen repair. Third-party screen replacement generally offers OEM or aftermarket screen. For OEM screen, we can transfer the original IC to the new OEM screen, which can get rid of the non-genuine display alert. Unfortunately, this doesn’t apply to most aftermarket screens. After testing by our engineers, we select several aftermarket screen assemblies that support IC transfer to remove the warning message, ranging from iPhone 11 series to the latest iPhone 12.

Next, we will show you how to remove the warning message with the aftermarket iPhone 12 Pro screen. After third-party aftermarket screen replacement, a non-genuine display warning appears and True Tone disappears.

As the aftermarket screen only stores the touch and pop-up encryption data, we need to restore the True Tone firstly. Connect the original screen with the programmer to read the True Tone. Then connect the aftermarket screen with the programmer to write the True Tone.

After reading and writing, True Tone is restored on the aftermarket screen but there is still a warning message.

The next step is to transfer the IC. Pre-heat the flex cable with a hot air gun at 240 °C. Then apply some alcohol and carefully pry up the flex cable.

Insert a blade under the flex cable and apply high-temperature tape around the IC. With hot air gun at 240 °C and airflow 8 for about 6-8 seconds, we desolder the chip.

As the chip is removed, we apply some middle-temperature solder paste and paste flux. Flatten the bonding pads with soldering iron at 300 °C. Then remove adhesive with hot air gun at 300 °C. Clean the bonding pads with PCB cleaner.

Scrape away black adhesive on the edges. Once cleaned, apply some middle-temperature solder paste. Form the solder balls with hot air gun at 300 °C.

Next, we use the same method to remove the IC on the aftermarket screen. Please take protection measures thoroughly. As the soldering for aftermarket IC is different, we only need to use hot air gun at 100 °C for 5 seconds to desolder it.

Apply some paste flux to the bonding pads. Remove tin on the bonding pads with soldering iron at 320 °C. Clean the bonding pads with PCB cleaner.

It can be seen that the pins and solder joints are consistent with the original screen.

Then we install the original IC. Apply some paste flux. Solder the IC with hot air gun at 240 °C. After the screen cools, clean residue soldering paste with PCB cleaner.

Install the aftermarket screen. There is no non-genuine display warning and True Tone is restored. The display and touch also work fine.

As the technology becomes more and more mature, many third-party screens are not much worse than the original genuine screens. In terms of display effect, touch effect and price, the third-party screen replacements are much more cost-effective than Apple's original screen replacements. We not only provide aftermarket screens that support IC transfer to get rid of the warning message but also full set of tools and technical support. Other than that, we provide aftermarket screens without the IC to save you from the trouble of removing. If you are interested, please don’t hesitate to contact our account managers.

REFOX RS30 Heating Pad for Phone Repair

Destroyed iPhone 13 Pro Restoration

In this video, we will restore a heavily destroyed iPhone 13 Pro. This iPhone 13 Pro’s screen and back cover are severely damaged.



Next, we install a known-good display to test the phone. The phone can be turned on. Face ID is unable to activate. There is no modem firmware.


Both the front and back cameras are not working.



In the first place, we replace the front and back cameras. Apply protection tape on the TrueDepth camera assembly.



After replacement, the back camera works again but only with 2x zoom. The front camera returns to function well. The malfunctioning modem firmware and cameras are caused by the motherboard middle layers


The next step is to remove the motherboard. The motherboard looks complete and not damaged. Attach the motherboard to the holder. As always, remove foam and dissipation tape.



Heat the motherboard at 170 °C. Add heat with a hot air gun at 330 °C. Remove the logic board.



It can be seen that there are many missing pads. Then clean the bonding pads with soldering iron at 370 °C and solder wick.



Open the bitmap to view the missing pads. There is only one missing pad that needs to be repaired.



Then we scrape to show the circuits under the pads. Clean the bonding pads with PCB cleaner.

Apply some middle-temperature solder paste. Solder with a hot air gun. Apply some paste flux. Put the soldering lugs in position. Solder with hot air gun again. After soldering, clean the bonding pads with PCB cleaner.



Apply some solder mask. Solidify with a UV lamp for about 1 minute. Scrape away residue solder mask to show the pads.



Then we need to recombine the motherboard. Apply some low-temperature solder paste to the bonding pads.


Put the signal board on the 170 °C heating platform to heat. After the solder balls are formed, apply some paste flux. Align the logic board. Keep heating the motherboard.



Install the motherboard for testing once it cools. Face ID is still not working. The modem firmware is restored. The rear camera works fine.

Then we inspect the TrueDepth camera assembly. Grind the metal plate. Remove the dot projector module. The CMOS of the infrared camera is damaged, which is unrepairable at the moment.

Next, we replace a brand-new back cover. Move flex cables and parts on the original back cover to the new cover. Apply new waterproof adhesive. Connect the display and turn on the phone. Everything else on the phone also works fine. That's as far as today's restoration goes.

REFOX RS50 Mobile Phone Opener and Clamp Fixture

How to choose iPad Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly?

The 1st gen. iPad was released by Apple in 2010. For now, it consists of 4 lineups, the original iPad lineup, and 3 flagships: the iPad Mini, iPad Air, and iPad Pro. As iPad gaining share in the tablet market these years, the 3rd-party repair store has to repair more and more iPad cases.

Why choose an iPad Digitizer Assembly?

The most common type of problem is screen breakage, replacing the screen assembly, which means spending higher costs. However, refurbishing a broken screen by replacing iPad Digitizer can save more cost and provide a competitive service price for clients.

Compared with OEM NEW Grade, the difference in appearance of Assemble (S+) Grade and Other Aftermarket Grade are revealed in the following dimensions: Flex Cable, Bezel Color, Max Value. Of Bending Force and more. 

  • Flex Cable: The flex cable of Assemble (S+) Grade look-alike  OEM NEW Grade, Other Aftermarket Grade has a different luster without the embossing from OEM NEW & Assemble (S+) Grade.
  • Bezel Color: The bezel color of OEM New and Assemble (S+) Grade are like metallic, Other Aftermarket Grade is almost gray.
  • Max. Value of Bending Force: OEM NEW (78.16 kgf) > Assemble S+ (72.86 kgf) > Other Aftermarket (30.76 kgf) 

Here is the roundup for iPad Digitizer Assembly Different Grade, showing the comparison of Glass lens, Rigidity, Transparency, Connect Stability, Hydrophobic Effect, After-Sale Rate, and Cost-Performance.

The Assemble (S+) Grade of iPad Digitizer is selected by REWA Supply, which is in Great Price with the stable inventory.

Diversify Quality Grading, 1 Year Warranty Covered, and 95+% Satisfaction with QC Test are the main advantages of REWA Selected Products.

The whole iPad touch screen digitizer quality checking process follows these steps:

Received materials > Check Appearance > Check Touch Function > Check Small Parts like Camera Frame, Adhesive Tape, Home Button etc. (Depend on Request) > Check Final Appearance > Cover the Protect Film > Inner Packing > Outside Packing > Ship Out

For more iPad Touch Digitizer Testing Process:

If you have any inquiry, please contact us at service@rewa.tech

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