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    How to choose iPad Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly?

    The 1st gen. iPad was released by Apple in 2010. For now, it consists of 4 lineups, the original iPad lineup, and 3 flagships: the iPad Mini, iPad Air, and iPad Pro. As iPad gaining share in the tablet market these years, the 3rd-party repair store has to repair more and more iPad cases.

    Why choose an iPad Digitizer Assembly?

    The most common type of problem is screen breakage, replacing the screen assembly, which means spending higher costs. However, refurbishing a broken screen by replacing iPad Digitizer can save more cost and provide a competitive service price for clients.

    Compared with OEM NEW Grade, the difference in appearance of Assemble (S+) Grade and Other Aftermarket Grade are revealed in the following dimensions: Flex Cable, Bezel Color, Max Value. Of Bending Force and more. 

    • Flex Cable: The flex cable of Assemble (S+) Grade look-alike  OEM NEW Grade, Other Aftermarket Grade has a different luster without the embossing from OEM NEW & Assemble (S+) Grade.
    • Bezel Color: The bezel color of OEM New and Assemble (S+) Grade are like metallic, Other Aftermarket Grade is almost gray.
    • Max. Value of Bending Force: OEM NEW (78.16 kgf) > Assemble S+ (72.86 kgf) > Other Aftermarket (30.76 kgf) 

    Here is the roundup for iPad Digitizer Assembly Different Grade, showing the comparison of Glass lens, Rigidity, Transparency, Connect Stability, Hydrophobic Effect, After-Sale Rate, and Cost-Performance.

    The Assemble (S+) Grade of iPad Digitizer is selected by REWA Supply, which is in Great Price with the stable inventory.

    Diversify Quality Grading, 1 Year Warranty Covered, and 95+% Satisfaction with QC Test are the main advantages of REWA Selected Products.

    The whole iPad touch screen digitizer quality checking process follows these steps:

    Received materials > Check Appearance > Check Touch Function > Check Small Parts like Camera Frame, Adhesive Tape, Home Button etc. (Depend on Request) > Check Final Appearance > Cover the Protect Film > Inner Packing > Outside Packing > Ship Out

    For more iPad Touch Digitizer Testing Process:

    If you have any inquiry, please contact us at service@rewa.tech

    How to Fix Microsoft Surface Pro 5 That Won't Turn On

    Microsoft Surface Pro 5 is one of the popular products from Microsoft. It's pretty common to face some problems and today we will show you how to fix a Surface Pro 5 that won’t turn on. In the first place, we connect a Type-C cable with BY-006S to supply power. Then connect BY-006S with the Surface. It can be seen that both the charging and power supply are working fine. The Microsoft logo shows for a little while but then the device turns off. We can judge that the problem is caused by the motherboard.

    Next, we need to take out the motherboard for further testing. Set the hot air gun to 180 °C and airflow 2. 

    Heat each edge of the display back and forth for about 10 seconds.

    After that, insert a plastic card from the gap of the speaker. Slice through the edges of the display. If you feel resistance while slicing, heat the edges again with a hot air gun and then continue slicing.  Please don’t damage the display and touch cables while lifting the screen.

    Disconnect the display and touch flex cables. With the heat sink out of the way, we still have to remove a couple of components before the motherboard is free. The motherboard is trapped under one speaker and a camera bezel.

    As the motherboard is out, we connect it with the power cable. Also, connect the display. The problem remains the same. The current stays at 0.32 ampere and then drops.

    The next step is to measure the working conditions of the motherboard. Display working means that the standby and boot voltages are good. After confirming the voltages are normal, we continue to measure some signals.
    Open the drawing. Search VCCST PWPGD. Measure if U1001K receives that signal. 

    Open the bitmap to search R2257.

    Supply power to the motherboard. Measure the voltage of pin 2 R2257. The voltage is 0.99 which is normal.

    Open the drawing to search PM PCH PWROK R. The signal is from U2203, generated from SLP S3 and PM PCH PWROK. Find U2203 on the bitmap.

    Then we measure pin 4 of U2203. Measure the voltage of pin 2 R2229. The voltage is 0 which is abnormal.  The normal value should be 3.3 volts.

    Next, we measure the input voltages of pin 1 PM PCH PWROK and pin 2 SLP S3 for U2203. Find pin 2 of R2261 that is connected to pin 1. Measure the voltage for pin 2 of R2261. The voltage is 3.3 which is normal. Keep measuring pin 2 of R2260. The voltage is 3.3 which is normal. We can conclude that U2203 is faulty.

    Then we remove the chip with a hot air gun at 430°C. Replace it with an original U2203 chip.

    Next, clean the motherboard with PCB cleaner.  Measure pin 4 of U2203. The voltage is 3.3 which is normal.

    The next move is to connect the screen and plug in the power cable to test. The Surface turns on and the fault is cleared.

    Microsoft Surface series was once considered unrepairable with a repairability score down to 1. Replacement of any part requires removal of the display assembly, which is expensive, stubbornly glued in place, and prone to shattering. What’s worse, the battery is also firmly glued in place, with its connector pinned under the motherboard, requiring near-total disassembly for service. REWA LAB recommends that you should be extremely careful while doing surface repairs. Without any proper guidance, amateurs are not advised to perform surface repairs, as it is quite possible the display or other parts might get damaged during operation.

    iPhone 13 Pro Face ID Repair – Smaller Notch Means Tougher Repairs?

    One of the major appearance differences between iPhone 12 Pro and iPhone 13 Pro is that iPhone 13 Pro has a smaller notch. After the iPhone 13 Pro teardown, we find that the TrueDepth camera system of iPhone 13 Pro is less of the flood illuminator than iPhone 12 Pro. The missing flood illuminator is one of the reasons why the notch is smaller.


    The front camera module of iPhone 13 Pro is also smaller than iPhone 12 Pro. The dot projector is moved to the middle with obvious outlook differences. We guess it may have something to do with the missing flood illuminator. The missing flood illuminator is probably integrated with the dot projector.


    In this video of a repair case, REWA LAB will find out where the missing flood illuminator is and what influences the change of design by Apple will bring to Face ID repairs.

    The Face ID of the iPhone 13 Pro is not available. Then we take apart the phone. Disconnect the battery and remove the display.


    To avoid potential damage, apply high-temperature tape on the front camera module before repairing. Next, yank the motherboard, earpiece speaker and front camera module out.



    In the first place, we connect the front camera module with the programmer. Then connect the phone to the computer. Click “Pearl Unbind”.

    After unbinding, attach the front camera module to the holder. Carefully grind the metal plate with a grinding pen. Pry up the metal plate with a sculpture knife. Then cut the pin.


    The next step is to remove the dot projector with hot air gun at 120 °C. It can be seen that the dot projector of iPhone 13 Pro is integrated with the flood illuminator. The CMOS of the infrared camera is put aside.


    Then we remove the chip with hot air gun at 330 °C. Clean the bonding pads with soldering iron at 360°C. Keep cleaning the bonding pads with solder wick. Please do not damage the gold wire or smudge the CMOS during operations.Scrub the bonding pads with PCB cleaner.

    Apply some paste flux to the bonding pads. Align the PCB board. Solder the board with hot air gun at 330°C


    To facilitate subsequent IC soldering, we flatten the bonding pads. Then put the IC in position. Solder the chip with hot air gun at 330°C.


    After that, we connect the flex cable with the programmer. Connect the phone with the computer. The new IC binds the phone successfully.

    Next, we install the flex cable for testing. The settings of Face ID can be open and the flood illuminator works fine.


    Then we need to assemble the front camera module. After alignment, apply some adhesive


    Once the adhesive is set, install the front camera module. Connect the screen and battery. Turn on the phone. Face ID can be set up and works perfectly.


    The flood illuminator of iPhone 13 Pro is integrated with the dot projector, which can make the notch smaller but brings new challenges for Face ID repairs. Compared to the old method of flex cable replacement and module transfer, the new way is more difficult and demanding for handwork. REWA LAB recommends non-professionals do not try this as it might damage the Face ID for good. We will keep you posted on the latest Face ID repair solutions for iPhone 13 series.

    Flat Screen Refurbishment-REFOX Desktop Multi-function Laminating Machine

    The repair of flat-screen refurbishment is commonly seen in the aftermarket. The normal refurbished process includes display separation, lamination, and debubbling. These are necessary for the repair. How do we improve work efficiency? It's suggested to make good use of the high-tech repair machine to help release the repair difficulty and advance the repair benefit at the same time.

     

    Several refurbished machines are widely known in the market, such as bubble remover, screen separator, laminating machine, etc. But most of them work independently, which costs us time and energy. However, REFOX FM-30 Desktop Multi-function Laminating Machine is a brand new three-in-one machine combined with the above functions, separation, lamination, and debubbling. It's small, lightweight, and convenient for repair shops.

     

    REFOX FM-30 Desktop Multi-function Laminating Machine is integrated with separation, lamination, and debubbling functions. Besides, it's inserted with a silent air compressor and vacuum pump. So one machine equals five inside. And this machine is designed as being stable and durable.

     

     

    Next, we can see its advantages. Its system is intelligent touch operation. The temperature is adjustable on the screen. It heats up evenly. The best function we should know about it is that lamination and debubbling can work together at one time. The separating workbench is within only one hole on the surface. Still, it's better than the multi-holes because it's inserted with a powerful vacuum pump, and the suction is excellent. So we can separate the screen easily with its help. You just need to press the suction-start button to turn it on.

    This machine can apply to all the flat screen mobiles, such as iPhone and Android phones. It can also refurbish the iPads, including 9.7 inches and below. So it's recommended the repair shops can fix the broken screen or screen refurbishment with the FM-30 Desktop Multi-function Laminating Machine.

     

    It's a pre-order product. 10% off discount for early birds. You can forward to REWA shop to buy one. You deserve it.

    The details on how to replace iPhoneX battery

    If your phone battery is in a low health condition, like 80%, it's time to replace a new one. Here are some tips for display replacement. We will bring you a case iPhone X as a reference. All you need is a repair kit and a new battery. The repair kit should be included as below: tweezers, screwdrivers, pry piece, suction cup, heating pad, spudger, battery adhesive, and waterproof adhesive.

    Firstly, please long press the phone to turn it off. Then you can use a pentagon screwdriver to unscrew the screws at the bottom of the phone. Please pay attention to putting the screws aside well. You can place the screen face down on the pad for about 2-3 minutes after the heating pad is up to the temperature of 70—80°c. And fix the suction cup at the bottom of the phone, lift the screen gently, and insert a pry piece underneath. Gradually move around the edge of the display, separating the screen along the gap. The display assembly is still connected to the iPhone by cables, so don't try to remove it completely. Again, please pay attention to the position of the cable to avoid damage. The angle should not be greater than 90 degrees to prevent breaking the flex cable. The process of removing the cover is done.

    Next, use a Tri-wing screwdriver to unscrew the screws on the shielding cover of the cable connector. You can use a spudger slightly to extricate the battery and the connector between the screen and motherboard. Now, continue to follow instructions step by step. Detach the earpiece speaker flex cable, and remove the old display assembly.

    Then, please use tweezers to clean up the battery adhesive. It's suggested to detach the Taptic Engine and loudspeaker better to remove the adhesive at the bottom of the battery. Again, use a Tri-wing screwdriver to unscrew the screws on the speaker flex cable and detach the shielding cover.
     
    After taking out the loudspeaker and Taptic Engine, let's continuously remove the battery adhesive. Because the adhesive at the bottom of the battery has been for a long time, it's hard to remove it. We need to drop some alcohol to help clean up. Drop the alcohol around the edge of the battery, and leave it to penetrate and evaporate. Use tweezers to make it lose, take out the old battery, and continue to remove the rest adhesive. Please keep removing the waterproof adhesive around the frame. And replace the Taptic Engine and loudspeaker. Remember to tighten the screws and replace it with the new battery.
     




    Tear off the film of the battery adhesive, and make its glue adhere to the battery. Press it slightly, and tear off the film. Please put on the new battery, and press it slightly. Use a spudger to disengage the battery connector. Reassemble the display cable, touch cable, and continuously.
     
    Please turn it on. Check the health condition of the battery. 
    It shows the maximum capacity of the battery now is 100%. Please turn it off. Tear off the waterproof adhesive. Make it adhere to the phone body. Press lightly with tweezers to make it adhesive. Tear off the film. Reassemble the display cable and touch cable. Reassemble the earpiece speaker flex cable, and connect the battery. Install the shielding cover, and tighten the screws. Take off the waterproof adhesive around the frame. Buckle the phone screen.

    Please turn it on again. Let's do some battery tests. 
    First is the wired charging test. Next is the wireless charging test. It's working. Both are working.

    The above guidance is about the battery replacement process. If you have any problems or advice, please leave us a comment below.